After reviewing DigiDimmer V2 with Jon and Mar, there are a few concerns. While a little discouraging, the concerns are valid and can be solved with a slight course correction and a little broader vision.

Product Concerns...

1. Buttons Too Small. In DigiDimmer V2, I located three buttons along the bottom of the switch area (still able to fit in a Decor faceplate) for modes. Those modes were 'lights', 'volume' and 'extra'. The idea was that the user could select the mode of the switch and then use the up and down buttons to make a change (dim/brighten lights, up/down music volume, select a new station). Jon thinks there aren't enough buttons and they are too small. He would prefer a regular up/down light switch (cheapest model) and a couple keypad variations (6 or 8 keys) that can be programmed for many functions.
2. No Keypad or Touch Screen Solution. Jon feels that each house will require a few keypads. He doesn't want customers to have to go to another vendor for this. So, he wants 6 and 8 button keypads with a built-in dimmer. Also, he wants a touch screen version for more sophisticated installations.
3. Require 600W and 1000W Versions. Jon thinks the majority of his devices in his house are 600W. However, he does have a handful of 1KW devices and once again, he doesn't want customers to have to go to another vendor for those. I have been planning a 1KW version all along so we are covered on this point.
4. No Switched Solution. Jon also has several places in his house that requires a remote controlled switch (fans and such). We currently have no offering for this.

Technical Concerns...

1. Power Integrations Supply Is Noisy. Mar has a friend that tried to use the LNK304 from PI and failed. Apparently, he was not able to get it through UL testing because of EMC. This is a big concern. All along, I have been trusting the PI documentation that states they have compliant designs. However, this might not be true (Arg!). This isn't a total disaster because other chip makers have better (more expensive) models of the PI controller but it would be nice to not have to go there. The problem is determining if I really have a problem. To find out if you won't pass EMC, you need to test with a Line Impedance Stabilization Network (LISN) which is not cheap. So far, we haven't been able to beg/borrow/steal one and they are expensive. We considered building one but experience tells us that building test equipment is its own can of worms. LISNs are made by Com-Power (see this model) and ETS-Lindgren (see this model).
2. AC Line Artifact. Ringing/Buck on the AC line is due to current surges in the load. When the triac turns on, the current rushes into the load and bounces around. To get around this, you put a big choke inline with the load to slow the current down a bit. Right now, DigiDimmer uses a PI filter with a 22uH inductor. This seems to be what other dimmer manufacturers use (Lutron). However, the Insteon dimmer uses a custom built 100uH inductor with noticeable improvement. The problem is that I can't just order a reasonable sized 100uH dimmer from Digikey or Mouser. I probably have to explore different core materials and wind my own.
3. Each Design Requires FCC. I have been trying to collapse DigiDimmer V2 into a single board solution. Along the way, Mar and Jon pointed out that every board I make (and Jon wants more variants of this product) will require FCC. One way to get around that is to use a module that has gone through FCC. Mar is working on such a thing (similar to this). However, I thought I couldn't use it because of space concerns. Now that Jon wants several variants of our product, some that will clearly eat up my available space, I am considering using a two board design for all variants (see below). This leaves room to use a module.
4. No Air Gap Switch. To be compliant with UL 1472, we have to have an air gap switch in the device. This gives the user a way to turn off all power to the device. The current DigiDimmer design doesn't have this.

What I Am Going To Do About It...

I am looking to solve all the problems above in a single design. I want to come up with a single design for all in-wall devices (dimmer and switch variants). To do this, I think it is only practical to go with a two board design. Functionally, it would break down like this:

1. Top Board/Top Surface. This holds the UI for whatever the device is. Except for the touch screen design, I could probably locate 6 to 8 switches on the surface that could be populated for the different configurations (2/6/8 keys). In addition, they could all share the same indicator lights.
2. Top Board/Bottom Surface. I could mount the MC13224 module here. A 1inch x 1.5inch module (like the CEL) would fit fine in this space (light switch boards are 1.5inch x 2.5inch). This surface is in-between the two boards so you would think the PCB antenna would be useless (but maybe not, things are just going to bounce around in the box anyway). However, whatever module we use will have a place to put an MMCX (or something) connector so we could put the antenna anywhere. We could even solder a whip to this location and have it go vertical through the Top board or Bottom board (just make the appropriate holes).
3. Bottom Board/Top Surface. This surface would only be used as a last resort. Right now, in my current design, I have a couple parts here but they could be moved to the other side. We would try to leave this surface clean so we don't incur another two sided assembly.
4. Bottom Board/Bottom Surface. This surface would have the dimmer/switch circuit, the power supply and the measurement/detection circuits. My current design already has these on this surface.

I would leave a 125mil border on the top board/top surface, top board/bottom surface and bottom board/top surface so I could have somebody make me some plastic mounts/spacers. This is what the insteon guys do. Also, there aren't a lot of signals that need to go between the two boards (maybe 10), so I would just use headers with 50mil pitch and 250mil mating. That will draw the board closer together than my current design (again, this is what the insteon guys do).

So, to make the products that Jon wants, I would make a Top board that did quadruple duty (2/6/8 button or a touch screen connector) and a Bottom board that did double duty (dimmer or switch). I would make a single MC13224 module for all these designs. I would then mess around with the antenna (use the PCB, use a through-board whip, run a cable to an antenna in the plastic face) until we got acceptable performance.